Nestled in the heart of Yangon, Pansodan Street has long been a cultural and literary hub. With its charming blend of colonial-era buildings, art galleries, and traditional bookstores, this street has always been a haven for artists, intellectuals, and book lovers alike. However, in recent times, Pansodan Street has seen a remarkable revival, thanks to the resurgence of used bookstores lining the sidewalks.
A ‘Literary Bar’ Under the Open Sky
For decades, the used bookshops along Pansodan Street have functioned as an informal ‘literary bar’—a place where readers can browse, exchange ideas, and immerse themselves in literature for a nominal fee. Unlike conventional bookstores, these open-air stalls provide an inviting space where anyone can leaf through old books, feel the texture of aging paper, and experience the timeless joy of discovering hidden literary gems.
Last week, as the warm winter sun bathed the streets of Yangon, readers gathered on the tarmac, sitting cross-legged on the dry platform, engrossed in well-worn novels and tattered encyclopedias. It was a sight reminiscent of the golden days of Pansodan Street when book lovers and collectors frequented the area, fostering a lively intellectual environment.
The Struggles and Resilience of Used Booksellers
The resurgence of street bookstores on Pansodan Street is not just a testament to the love for books but also a reflection of the resilience of the booksellers who sustain this literary tradition. Life as a used bookseller is not easy. Many of them cannot afford the high rent of commercial spaces, making these roadside stalls their lifeline. Despite financial hardships and the ever-changing urban landscape, these dedicated sellers continue to bring literature to the streets, ensuring that reading remains accessible to all.
Among the many bookstores that once thrived in this literary district was ‘Ama Ein,’ a beloved store that inspired poets and writers, including myself. Alongside major bookstores such as ‘Inwa,’ ‘Yay Pyae,’ and ‘Sabya Lok,’ the second-hand bookstores on the street have long been a favorite among literature enthusiasts. Many well-known translators, particularly those with a penchant for English books, frequent these roadside stalls in search of valuable texts and rare editions.
Some booksellers have been selling old books at Pansodan Old Book Row for four to five decades, a testament to their unwavering commitment to literature. They have witnessed the transformation of Yangon, the changing reading habits of generations, and the shifting tides of history—all from behind stacks of books, some yellowed with age, others marked with the musings of previous owners.
A Legacy Recognized by Literary Giants
Pansodan Old Book Row is not just a local treasure; it has garnered international recognition as well. The esteemed travel magazine AFAR reported that literary legends like George Orwell and poet Pablo Neruda, both of whom spent time in Burma, visited the famous book stalls of Pansodan. The legacy of this literary street extends beyond Myanmar’s borders, cementing its place in global literary history.
The appeal of these second-hand bookstores lies not only in the books themselves but also in the culture of affordability and accessibility they promote. In an era where the prices of new books are skyrocketing, the humble signs that read ‘Buy 1000 if you like’ and ‘Buy 2000 if you like’ still attract eager readers who long to escape into the world of literature without straining their wallets.
The Future of Pansodan’s Literary Culture
The revival of Pansodan Street’s used bookstores serves as a beacon of hope for Yangon’s literary community. As digital culture and modernization continue to reshape the way people consume literature, these book stalls stand as a reminder of the irreplaceable charm of physical books. They are more than just vendors; they are custodians of stories, history, and culture.
In the second week of January, a snapshot of a reader buying books at Pansodan Old Book Row captured the essence of this revival—a moment frozen in time, representing the enduring spirit of literature and the people who keep it alive.
As Yangon moves forward, may Pansodan Street continue to flourish as a literary sanctuary, inspiring future generations to cherish the written word and uphold the tradition of storytelling. Whether you are a local book enthusiast or a wandering traveler, a visit to Pansodan Street’s used bookstores is sure to be a journey through history, knowledge, and the undying love for books.